The spectacular opening battle of the Điện Biên Phủ Campaign

ĐBP- On this day 70 years ago, under a canopy of pure white orchid trees, our soldiers huddled together silently at the Him Lam outpost, waiting. At 5pm on March 13, 1954, they raised their weapons and opened fire to shake the "Steel doors" of Him Lam, or Béatrice.This was the beginning of the Điện Biên Phủ Campaign.Those same white orchid trees are once again in full bloom, adorning the entrance to the historic Him Lam site, standing proud as an ever-lasting reminder to all who visit of an heroic and illustrious moment in time.

Soldier Bùi Kim Điền remembers gun shots that rung out in Him Lam, opening the Điện Biên Phủ Campaign that was both glorious and painful with so many heart-breaking losses. Photos Nguyễn Hiền

In November 1953, French troops parachuted into Mường Thanh Valley capturing Điện Biên Phủ. They built a most powerful set of outposts, never seen before in Indochina with three sub zones, divided into eight clusters with 49 stronghold outposts. Three outposts of Béatrice were well-equipped with heavy artillery, perched on three different tall hills. Each post provided cover for the other, soldiers watching the backs of their colleagues and positioned in such a way, poised to open fire in all directions.

It was almost a perfect defensive setup. 

The outposts were well connected with a maze of web trenches, separated by razor-sharp barbed wire. Structures were built with separate levels, connected with concrete bunkers. It was a near impenetrable base.

The French stationed at Him Lam were the elite, the 13th Demi-Brigade of the Foreign Legion. Its fire power was well equipped, and they had backup from Mường Thanh in the centre and Hồng Cúm if needed.

The French spent so much time and effort securing Him Lam to prevent our major military forces attacking from Tuần Giáo to take Điện Biên. 

With such strong defensive power, the French declared Him Lam the 'steel doors of the unbeatable fortress'. They even labelled the strongholds of Điện Biên Phủ, 'meat grinders'.

Điện Biên fighter Bùi Kim Điều who lived at Group 9, Him Lam Ward, Điện Biên Phủ City, was in Company No. 4, Battalion No. 5, Regiment 165, Brigade 312.

Recalling the days when he fought in the first battle of Him Lam, Điều said: "Enemy planes flew everywhere to drop leaflets and spoke on the loudspeakers to break our soldiers' will.

"But as we chose the revolutionary road, we were committed to follow it until the end. We didn't think much about being dead or alive, we were just determined to fight and to win back our national independence." 

Điện Biên Soldier Nguyễn Hữu Chấp visualises the battle he took part in as a young man. File Photo

Điện Biên Soldier Nguyễn Hữu Chấp, from Group 20, Him Lam Ward was chief of Mortar Unit 82, Company 290, Battalion 166, Regiment 209, Brigade 312.

He recalled: "We party members had to set the example: each wrote a letter volunteering to accomplish our assignments, to take Him Lam and not let fighting prolong the war. We soldiers also wrote our own motto lines "Determined to win, if we do not win, we won't go home!" on a small piece of paper, wrapped up and clinched tightly in our fists. The burning desire within us all followed us into the battle.

"Armed with such spirit, on the night of March 12, 1954, we marched into the battlefield, it rained heavily as we moved bit by bit in the mud. In the small hours of the next day, March 13, we arrived at our destination and started to prepare for battle, using forest flora and fauna to hide.

"I was among others hiding in the trenches on Him Lam rice paddy field. The local people ha been moved by the French to camps. The fields were left untended and wild grass grew as tall a hat on standing man. We waited a whole day, the pressure building up. At 5pm sharp, we opened fire and bullets flew directly into the enemy camp." 

The whole of Him Lam was shaken to its core, the French were drawn to their feet alarmed at this unexpected and sudden attack.

Moments after the first shots were fired, our artillery forces hit the target, knocked out the control headquarters of Him Lam Resistance Centre, destroying the Morse coding system, completely cut through Him Lam with Mường Thanh at the centre.

At the fortification No. 1, one hour later, our soldiers broke through the fences, entering with explosives to blow up the control bunker and fly high their "Determined to Win" flag.

The French counter attacked well, but at 10.30pm, we captured Fortification No.2 and one hour later, took the last fortification No. 3. The first battle was successful: the French collected 400 dead bodies, but losses on our side were also plentiful. 

"The Steel Doors" of Him Lam of the past is today an historic site to visit, a tourism attraction and place to stop and remember what went before.

Asked to recall those painful memories of fallen soldiers, Điện Biên Fighter Bùi Kim Điều stays silent for a while. Gathering his thoughts and pausing for reflection.

He eventually spoke.

"After the third bout of artillery fire, the enemy fought back but they were quite weak," Điều said. 

"We divided into two groups to attack, used explosives to break the barbed wire fences to open gaps for infantry troops to advance. Smoke was everywhere, our ears were ringing due to explosives, but we went up anyway.

"When we got up half way to the hill top, there was one stronghold that opened fire really hard and my company suffered great losses. Phan Đình Giót fired his last cartridge belt and rose up to block the firing hole on the bunker, stopped the firing. Our troops quickly advanced to the top and captured the fortification, winning the first battle."

From the victory of Him Lam, our troops advanced to capture each and gradually all the strongholds of the French. At 5.30pm on May 7, 1954, the "Determined to fight, Determined to win" flag flew high on top of General de Castries.

The so-called "untouchable fortress" of the French Legion and not only been touched, but completely destroyed, marking a "glorious victory that took the world by storm".

Seventy years have passed, and those bright eyed youths who were burning with desire to volunteer to fight and defend their country may now be a little slower on their feet, but their minds are still as sharp as a pin.

Many who survived the battle have not survived old age, and just a few soldiers who fought so bravely all those years ago are still alive today.

With them embedded in their minds are memories of a time gone by. Photographs may fade over time, but those thoughts from seven decades ago are crystal clear.  

Memories of that spectacular start to the Him Lam battle and the victorious Điện Biên Phủ Campaign are engrained in the mindset of every Vietnamese who ever lived.

They will never, ever be forgotten. 

Article and photos by Nguyễn Hiền
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